Zagreb the capital of Croatia is the first stop on our Croatia / Slovenia sojourn. Today we spent the day wandering around the historic and tourist sights. Zagreb doesn't appear to be heaving with tourists, and the tourists out there are from close by. The only English spoken is between ourselves, although those in the service industry do speak good English. Communication is not a problem.
Old Zagreb is divided into 2 distinct areas, upper town built on the steep hillsides and lower town on the flat. Last night we wandered around lower town and today we puffed and panted up the hill to look across the city, and explore the higher elevation.
Picasso exhibition was our first port of call. While I enjoyed looking at his work I know why I don't have his prints on my wall. I also know why Picasso features in the Apple Think Different footage for his creativity, his talent and his way of thinking differently about art and why I don't feature at all. We walked some way back down the hill through the Stone Gates the corner of which has been turned into a shrine to the Virgin Mary. Very historic with stone plaques dating way back of the wishes granted through prayer. The ceiling of the gate blackened from the lighting of the candles but also from a devasting fire which swept this area in 1731. Zagreb must hold the record for number and variety of museums, aside from the regular types. We chose the Muesum of Broken Relationships mostly for the unusual title, and where else would you have the opportunity? People from around the world have donated various items as part of the cleansing and gaining strength process after a relationship end. Each exhibit has a story attached, including the infamous "we broke up on skype" clock. While some were rather trite, the one that touched me was a poem and story written by a 13 yr old boy. He was in a car convoy fleeing from Sarejavo in 1992. The convoy was held under siege for 3 days and he got to know the girl in the car next door. Her family had fled suddenly, and she without any pocessions. The lad gave her his music tapes. As soon as the convoy moved he never saw her again, so his poem was wishing the girl well. Especially poiant as we are headed to Sarejevo towards the very end of the holiday.
Croatia joined the EU on Sunday so on Monday many things had free entry in recognition of this historic moment. Trams were free so by taking advantage of this we explored a segment of lower town and an art gallery all beautifully restored in 2002 and truly magnificent.
I am impressed with what I have seen of Zagreb, especially their parks in lower town. Huge areas known as the greenhorse shoe with well established trees, fountains, pathways and green grass, which are well cared for and well used by people walking or relaxing. I loved letting my toes dabble in the grass, enjoying the texture. It's been a long time since I have enjoyed grass so much!
The tram system is modern, efficient, cheap and well patronised, which allows easy movement around the city. While there are cars in and around the city, the roading system is not clogged with traffic and not a motorbike in sight! Trams move llarge numbers of people efficiently.
Having read widely about Croatia and the war, there is no evidence of such in Zagreb to date. The buildings are very Austrain / Hungarian in size and architecture, I guess relating back to the period when Croatia was part of that Empire. The history and the archetecture remain well preserved. The narrow cobbled streets leading to upper town. The huge trgs or squares, the statues, the plaques etc. Yes my first impressions remain, Zagreb is a green friendly city, seeped in history all well cared for. A city somewhat off the tourist trail, and a delight to be part of.
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