Friday, July 05, 2013

Zagreb. Self guided tour.


Before I came to Croatia I downloaded Rick Steve's Slovenia and Croatia travel guide onto my iPad. and printed out countless pages from wikitravel. Wiki travel recommended Mimara Museum housing 3700 art works donated to the city by one Anté Topić Mimara, along with 1500 exhibits dating from prehistoric to 20th century also from his collection. The art work interested me most, so while Ian was dealing with jetlag I set out to explore the city and take in the art. Mimara Museum would be the first art gallery / museum that I have been in where:
A) the art works are not behind glass. You can touch them if you we're so inclined
B) there are no security guards following you around securitising your every move. There were cameras and a vigilant man watch countless screens in the foya area
C) you are encouraged to take photos, without flash. Wow that's a brave move to counter the taking of illicit   photos that is now possible with the various small digital devices
I'm in art heaven. While 3500 art works sounds a lot there were only one or 2 pieces from all the big names. I recognised the known English painters Monet, Constable, Gainsborough and marvelled at the European works of Rembrant, Goya  and Van Dyck. One painting was completed in 1642, so one has to surmise at the figure that one is worth.

One of the chapters in the Rick Steve book included a self guided walking tour of Upper Town in Zagreb which looked really interesting and could be completed in an hour or longer depending on how much time you spent viewing the recommended sights. Walking time only was 1 hr. Four hours later... 
I loved every minute of the walk which included a few of the places Ian and I had walked the day before. This time however I was an expert and was on the look out for the fore mentioned sights, like the watch tower with canon that salutes the time at midday every day. Zagreb didn't suffer a great deal from the war with only the communication tower being bombed and the Prime Minister residence in an unsuccessful assassination attempt. You could plainly see the different tiles used  to repair the roof of his residence. The cathedral,  the Parliament, the oldest pharmacy dating back to 1323, recently renovated, thank goodness, the  fruit and vegetable market, the flower market, and the fish and meat market were all worth the visit. 

Zagreb is like being in food and cafe heaven. The Croats have a real cafe culture to which I am fast becoming accustomed. Out door fresco cafe tables and chairs are every where, infact there are streets devoted to them. Taking coffee is very much a long and customary social occasion. While a large majority of the cages serve drinks, alcohol and coffee a few include food. Pizza is a large menu item and extraordinary large in size too. One pizza could feed a family of four or as in my photo a growing lad. Rice doesn't appear to be a menu item, can't understand why!!
No complaints only praise for such a beautiful city that appears to be progressive and environmentally aware. The people are welcoming, friendly and helpful, but not intrusive, just going about their business as city folk do. 







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