Great War Battlefields Tour

My grandfather served in Gallipoli from 1915  - 1916 and then was shipped out via Egypt and the Uk to  Passendale and the Western front. I visited Gallipoli 3 years back, always wanted to complete the puzzle to visit Flanders and Passendale. Today I joined a tour of the Great War battlefields sites and loved every minute of it. We began at the trenches of death, the actual western front. I stood  on the front line amongst the trenches, and the red poppies, 50 m from the German bunkers. We visited the Flanders Museum in Ypres which was incredible. Very much a hands on museum with interactive exhibits, informative and refurbished. After lunch it was off to Passendale, Hill 60, the site where the Germans let off the poisonous gas in 22 - 24 April, Tyne Cot Cementary, John McCraes Essex Farm Cementary,  the Passendale Museum. The last stop was Menin Gate in Ypres where they played the last post and hasd a wreath laying ceremony. All very poignant and a little bit emotional. I found a photo at Passendale of a chap in the trenches who looked so much like my Grandfather.

Perhaps the biggest impact is the statistical data. Between Australia and NZ they committed 500,000 troops. My Grandfather Jock Meikle belonged to The Canterbury regiment. In Tyne Cot alone, are the names of over 250 men from that regiment who were missing in action, not to mentioned the ones who are buried there ,from Canterbury. That Cementary contains 12,000 head stones with lots of much smaller cementaries dotted all around the areas each containing over 1,000 head stones. The loss of life was horrendous, even then one hundred tears ago. 

Jock Meikle served in 2 hotspots around the world for 4 years. The law of averages would suggest he was a very lucky man to come home alive, with out major injury. 

When the Germans let off their chlorine gas the first day, the gas wafted over the Canadian troops. 2000 died in those first 2 days from gas poisoning. Over the period of the war they let off 4 different types of gases. 

The video footage of men climbing out of the trenches and running over the top, through the barbed wire is horrific. Life in the trenches, when you walk in the actual trenches was not a picnic. The dugouts around Passendale with men sleeping in a space less than 2 ft wide under ground. 

The types and the distances that the mortar shells would reach, really kept every one alert. There really was no hiding when a shell could travel up to 10 kms. No wonder the bunkers were so thick. 

We stood in Menin Gate for the playing of the last post. Written all over the gate are the names of the allies who served  and died in the specific area of Ypres alone. Thousand and thousands, separate of course to Passendale, Flanders, Essex Farm, the UK cementaries , the huge Canadian one etc etc. 

My big regret is that I failed to talk with both my Grandfather and my Mum about his exact movements. 

Jock Meikle you were one very lucky man, not to have been there but to have survived.

Aalsmeer Flower Market

This morning we got up early and headed out to Aalsmeer the international Flower Market outside Amsterdam. Aalsmeer is a huge auction house that processes and auctions flowers from growers mostly in The Netherlands, before dispatching them onto the world market. We arrived about 7:30 and the auction  and dispatch was well underway. Flora Holland the collective that runs the whole complex claim to handle 34.5 million blooms a day in over 100,000 transactions. The most popular flower types include roses, tulips, and hydrangeas.

Flora Holland claim to process the flowers in 90 minutes from receiving, through the auction process to dispatch. The whole process is automated and works like clockwork, as the trolleys of flowers move along the little railway lines. The employees ride the little Segway type machines that pick up pallets, break down the pallets, deliver flowers for each purchaser into set trolleys. Here process is amazing. We spent over 2 hours following various carts of blooms and watching the precision of the dispatch. 

Cycling and cycle ways

Copenhagen is crowned the city of cycling, and while there was an awful lot of cycling and cyclists, I believe Amsterdam really should wear the cycling crown. This is a city of over 5 million cycles. The road ways have a cycle paths that runs beside them on each side. So beside the road you have a cycle way that runs the same way on the right and another going in the opposing direction on the right. Not only are there cycle lanes but there are also cycle traffic lights. The cycle ways are very busy all the time, believe you me I have had to wait and step around them. Cycles both in Denamrk and Amsterdam are not fashion statements, they are plain cycles similar to that of a Mother Ryley. High handles bars, basket on the front and no gears. Riders just ride in what ever attire they have, everyday clothes. There is seldom any Lycra in sight. All bikes have simple locks and huge chains with locks. A quick stop at a shop requires a simple lock up job. A long term stop requires the bike to be padlocked to a fence, a bike stand or the wheels locked. Around the city are huge cycle parks and at central station a tiered cycle building similar to that of a car park building. 

Cycles are adapted to have baskets on the front, carts for children, child seates on the front, extensions on the back. Whatever the circumstances there is a bike. Families cycle together, friends get around the city, everyone does it on a cycle. Cycles range from 199 Euros onwards.

Basically this city is well geared for cycles and cyclists. Amsterdam is definitely cycling capital.

The coffee shop or the coffee plaza

Jenny and I are staying in the neighbourhood Oud West in Amsterdam. This vibrant neighbourhood is a short tram ride from the centre of the city. On arrival I learnt 2 very valuable lessons. Lesson 1. The difference between a coffee shop and a coffee plaza. Across the road is a coffee plaza, down the road are 3 coffee shops. When I casually mentioned we were off to a coffee shop on our arrival our land lady was quick to inform me of the difference. The coffee plaza across the road sells coffee and cake. The coffee shop sells coffee, sweet drinks and hash. Embibing is not compulsory or forced, instead available if requested. Apparently you can try before you buy. The whole theme based around soft drug use is social responsibility. The using public really take the responsibility issue on board. People NEVER smoke around children. 5 grams is the maximum one can pocess, more is regarded as hard drugs which the lawmakers then clamp down on. Staff at coffee shops always ensure patrons have hot sweet drinks which counterbalance the effect of hash if one was to embide a little too much. Around the city are various indications of soft drug and social responsibility. A seat outside a house in a canal neighbourhood encourage people to sit and relax, but please don't smoke as children live in the house. Across the road on the canal edge was a chap smoking, quite away from houses and homes. I am impressed with the legislation around soft drug use. The lawmakers are not spending their resources chasing small time users, sweating the small stuff, instead aiming for the pushers and suppliers of hard drugs. 

Tobacconist are dotted around the city and sell news agent type material plus cigarettes and a wide array of cigars. Although lost in translation I was unable to ascertain if there was an age restriction of purchasing cigarettes. Again I suspect the social responsibility attitude and law kicks in. I have only seen adults entering such shops. Social responsibility seems to be the key to success. 

Social laws and responsibility in The Netherlands.

Yesterday we took a bike tour around Amsterdam City to help us get an overall view of the highlights and sights of the city we may want to come back to. Kate our tour guide was marvellous and we really did see an awful lot of the city.

Time and time again Kate kept talking about and discussing the various laws and social policy that has been in place since the 1950's. The Netherlands are way ahead of many other democratic countries. People and their welfare seem to feature heavily within policy making. 

Our first stop was Voldel Park. The parks around Amsterdam were created for the poor and lower paid people. When summer came all the richer folk would leave town and go to the country. The city father recognised that the poorer citizens needed places to relax, walk and enjoy the sun, so they created parks. They attempted to equalise things for all people, believing that with fresh air and sun  would benefit the health and well being of the general population. Around this time the hippie population moved into the park. A particular area was created for them, thus allowing equality for all. Even the mail was even delivered to a purpose built Postoffice for the hippie residents. 

Our next stop was further into the centre of the city. Around the beginning of the 60's developers were buying buildings, purposely keeping them empty for years as property values escalated. While the Dutch are rather protective of their heritage and have felt a great deal of responsibility to the population because the government collaborated with Hilter. They passed laws stating that unused and empty buildings are allowed to be inhabited,  rent free as long as no damage is done. So the hippies  and other homeless moved in. While the hippies etc can't be tossed out as long as no damage is done while the building remains empty. Now buildings very seldom pass into the hands of speculators.

Soon we biked into the red light district, and Kate talked about the reforms around prostitution. Instead of sweeping it all under the carpet and ignoring the fact that prostitution has been part of the city for hundreds of years since Amsterdam became a trading port, the government have legislated in favour of prostitution. This act also recognises woman and does not legislate against them, hence turning them into lower class citizens. All people in The Netherlands are valued. Every prostitute is registered, their dwelling registered, they sign the lease themselves on their own in an attempt to eliminate the pimp. The red light district is covered by CTV, so all activity is observed. Curb crawling is an offence. The ladies receive health checks every 2 to 3 weeks, will receive benefits with in 24 hours if they decide not to continue to work in the industry, and are entitled like everyone else to a state pension. In every window are 3 panic buttons that the police will respond to within 60 seconds. Why do the government support this industry. Because this industry is registered, has a union and the ladies pay 19% tax, over 6.5 billion Euro worth a year. Now why wouldn't you.

Lastly we talked about soft drugs which are available and used. The one word in the legislation that allows soft drug use is the word responsibly. Smoking around children for example is not considered responsible, so it's not done. The population really take on board their responsibility. Making the use of soft drugs legal the police are trying to stop use of the hard drugs. The population can grow up to 5 plants and use. Each person is entitled to have 5 grams in their pocession. Any more is an offence. Harvesting the 5 plants together  gives a net weight of more than 5 grams and therefore these can't be legally on sold. Coffee shops can sell hash with coffee or other hot sweet drinks. Sellers are registered and pay tax. Another few more billion Euros.

This really is a brief synopsis. The essence of this post was to report and acknowledge the social legislation that is in place in The Netherlands. I was amazed  at the forethought , the way people are valued and how rather than ignoring or bringing about legislation that is very difficult to police, the government are instead working with the people. They are legislating against and trying to lessen the big social problems while working with the people and bringing in zillions in tax. 

Police Berlin style Excitement in Berlin

Yesterday we had booked another cycling tour, this time a food biking tour with Fat Tire. The bike company is situated in Alexander Platz. On arrival on the S trains, the platz was surrounded by police vehicles, similar to our paddy wagons, and a few police at a distance from a crowd gathered around a set of stairs to a restaurant. A group of protestors were chanting away and things looked peaceful. Viewing the scene from a distance from the luxury of a cafe we watched more police vans arrive dispersing officers with hermits and thick combat fatigues. Journalists and camera crews were gathering. The police were checking out back entrances, and so too were the journalists. One journalist told us the protestors were up in the TV towers right beside our bike shop. Suddenly van loads of police arrived into the back of the TV tower, followed by foot police and the paparazzi. Game on. Our friendly journalist then found another set of steps up towards the TV tower and disappeared, followed by the media pack, followed by the police. At about that point our bike tour was leaving. On return about 5 hrs later at the end of the tourthere was a couple of police vehicles still stationed at the platz, with all other people long since gone. This morning  one of the early items on Berlin TV news showed footage of the TV tower, police and public, but as my German is limited I still have no idea what the protest up the TV towers was about. Gone too was any chance of being on state TV, in the East at that. 

Police Berlin style Excitement in Berlin

Yesterday we had booked another cycling tour, this time a food biking tour with Fat Tire. The bike company is situated in Alexander Platz. On arrival on the S trains, the platz was surrounded by police vehicles, similar to our paddy wagons, and a few police at a distance from a crowd gathered around a set of stairs to a restaurant. A group of protestors were chanting away and things looked peaceful. Viewing the scene from a distance from the luxury of a cafe we watched more police vans arrive dispersing officers with hermits and thick combat fatigues. Journalists and camera crews were gathering. The police were checking out back entrances, and so too were the journalists. One journalist told us the protestors were up in the TV towers right beside our bike shop. Suddenly van loads of police arrived into the back of the TV tower, followed by foot police and the paparazzi. Game on. Our friendly journalist then found another set of steps up towards the TV tower and disappeared, followed by the media pack, followed by the police. At about that point our bike tour was leaving. On return about 5 hrs later at the end of the tourthere was a couple of police vehicles still stationed at the platz, with all other people long since gone. This morning  one of the early items on Berlin TV news showed footage of the TV tower, police and public, but as my German is limited I still have no idea what the protest up the TV towers was about. Gone too was any chance of being on state TV, in the East at that. 

Berlin, East and West.

Yesterday on our arrival in Berlin Jenny and I went out on a late afternoon bike tour of  various historical sights. As an historian I was most interested in the Nazi occupation and the Cold War. I wasn't disappointed. This tour covered it all. Checkpoint Charlie, the small piece of the wall that's left, Memorial to the murdered Jews, the Television tower, the site of the burning of the books, Hitlers bunker East West, etc.  Of course there was also the historical sights, The Brandonburg Gates, Tiergarten, Parliment, and various churches.

Today we went back to explore the East West area around Checkpoint Charlie. I always thought the wall split the city, however it surrounded, 150 kms of wall around,  the East of the city. No mans land was a street wide strip, that did expand out to 100 m in various parts, commonly called the division of death. Each side used various icons and propaganda . Beside checkpoint Charlie, the west East divide  is a McDonalds. The East retaliated with beautiful apartments just across the wall so those who had left could mourn what was lost. 

The wall was basically built one Saturday night. When residents awoke on Sunday morning the rolls of bar wire had been laid out, dividing streets, and families. There are photos of families holding up children to show the relatives on the other side of the street. 

In the midst of our explorations our spirits were dampened by an electrical storm. We took this opportunity to board a train and travle out to the outskirts of the city to Grunewald and Gleis 17. Gleis means platform in German, so this space was the platform where the Jews were deported from Berlin to their ultimate death in one of the death camps or to work in Russia. Gleis 17 is a memorial on a small siding. On each side or the tracks is a small plaque with the date, number of Jews deported and their destination. Very sobering, especially as the first 10 plaques represented 10,000 Jews deported in 5 months. 

Of course there is also the German food which I took the opportunity to consume today. Roast pork, roast potatoes, sour kraut and an apple cider topped up with sprite. Delicious and very refreshing.