Monday, June 13, 2011

Mussandam Weekend











I have just returned home from a weekend in Khassab on the Mussandam Pennisula with Sue an Aussie lady from our company. Mussandam is the area in Oman right at the very top of the Arabian Peninsula. Oman is split into 3 bits with the UAE in between the Peninsula and the rather large coastline country of Oman. I'd heard from colleagues that you could take a dhow cruise from Mussandam, snorkel and swim with the dolphins, so Mussandam it was. The moment we crossed the border and started the drive towards Mussandam the whole scene reminded me of driving along the Kaikoura coastline. Steep cliffs, huge rock formations with the sea below or within touching distance.

We stayed in Khassab the largest town on the peninsula and did our tour from there. The dhow took us, 10 passengers total, around the coastline and then into a 16km long fjiod. The fjord reminded me so much of the Marlborough Sounds minus the greenery. Again huge cliffs rising out of the sea and beautiful blue water. We watched dolphins playing and following our dhow, no swimming with the dolphins sadly. We stopped twice along the way for snorkelling and swimming with the beautiful coloured fish who live in the warm tropical water. About half way along the fjord we came upon Telegraph Island, an old relic from the British Empire days. The British took 10 years to lay the cable from India to ?? and only used the base as a telecommunications station for 5 years. Dotted along the fjord were very small settlements or single houses of fisherfolk. The terrain is too steep and barren for anything other than a few date palms and some goats. The residents of course use little boats to take their fish into Khassab and onto Dubai, and these could be seen criss crossing the inlets just like Marlborough Sounds. The Omanian government run powerlines over this very bleak rocky terrain to supply electricity to these folk and supply them with fresh water. Apparently the fishing industry is a good revenue earner, especially to Dubai. By supplying the utilities free of charge it also keeps the residents in their homes, and stops the urban drift.
Other snippets of information and observations.
The Omanians unlike their UAE counterparts value their environment. The fjord itself is very very clean. I hardly saw any rubbish floating in or around the waters edge. We had strict instructions to keep all our rubbish onboard the boat, including cigarette buts and toilet tissue. Suitable reciprocals were provided.
Khassab is a place where Iranian pirates land, selling American cigarettes for goats and other supplies. The trade is fairly well documented, and their boats unmistakable. I guess while its not involving arms who minds too much.
In July and August, the months deemed summer the fishing ceases. The larger and popular types of fish leave the fjord and go out to sea as the water becomes too warm.
Day temperatures in summer months often rise well above 55 degrees.
Over all a great experience, and one I'm glad to have done.

2 comments:

ianmac said...

Wow! Pretty dramatic country.And the lack of any visible greenery a bit strange. Still no lawns to mow so I guess the few residents won't be interested in buying my lawn mower - or even a goat.
Makes the diet of the locals very interesting. Wonder if they live to very elderly?

Dave Parsons said...

Great photos Jocelyn. You can almost feel the heat. Such barren country and huge cliffs. Great to know that the Omani's are more respectful to their environment. Maybe it will spread across the border!!